Our final day in the Western Isles and we had the most incredible sunrise to watch from bed, along with a pair of white tailed eagles who were doing their early morning shopping – not sure what they caught as they were a long way distant, but whatever it was they were tearing it apart. Breakfast was eggs and bread from the local community shop, with smoked salmon supplied free of charge by Uig Sands Rooms.
As we were reluctantly leaving Uig Sands Rooms we watched 4 – yes 4 – eagles playing in the skies close by (camera in the car…) Onward to a couple of stops before hitting the ferry at Stornoway – Great Bernera first, a tiny island connected with a modern but modest bridge, where there was a beach and iron age settlement (recreated building but real site). The beach has a permanent art installation, a bell which chimes using wave power. On the way off the island we saw a chubby seal having a rest.
Next stop, the most northerly point on our road trip – Butt of Lewis. Just before arriving we passed through a place called Ness, which was a collection of quite utilitarian housing. The arse end of the Butt of Lewis. At the Butt was a brick built lighthouse, and not a lot else.
Back in Stornoway we found lunch – Tesco picnic, not anywhere near as good as M&S – then boarded the ferry. Sadly it was really busy with freight so we got crammed into the raised deck, which was made more amusing (on the way off) by the man in the car next to ours being unable to use his key to unlock his door. One of the deck crew began to climb in through the boot before someone worked out the passenger door might be easier. Otherwise I wasn’t keen as cars really were too close together.
The journey was long (3 hours) but we saw a very nice sunset and a few birds.
On arrival we headed to our B&B for the evening, Clachan Gardens, which (we now know) was on a Channel 4 TV programme where hotel owners stay in each others’ places and rate each other. Sounds like a dangerous game to me. But it was a very interesting property, rammed full of books, and paraphernalia of all kinds, and a gentleman in a kilt. Nice scones.
Dinner was back in Ullapool, super quick as we picked things which took minimal time to make or were obviously already prepared.
Breakfast – local eggs, bread and salmon
Lunch – Tesco picnic
Dinner – Upstairs at the Arch, Ullapool
Hotel – Clachan Gardens B&B