With the car waiting at the garage for its tyre repair, we left our hobbit house for breakfast – one of the best yet. I then left Jo at the hotel and walked down the hill (raining and very windy) to see how they were getting on with the repair – they weren’t, but soon made a start and I was back at the hotel by just before 10am, so not a lot of time lost.
Our plan for the day remained as originally conceived – visiting sights around the middle and north of Skye. First, the Sligachan bridge, and whilst it was very windy the rain wasn’t too troubling. There was a party of photographers there with some very nice kit (looked like medium format (read expensive), but I’m not an expert) and they were taking their shots very seriously.
Next, Fairy Pools. This is a series of small waterfalls, which are along a rising valley for a few kilometres. The weather was horrendous with winds over 50mph (couldn’t stand up at times) and driving horizontal rain. That didn’t put us off, and we walked a total of 7.5km over the course of 2 hours. Suffice to say the waterfalls look less tranquil and calm, and more raging and overflowing. We got VERY wet, despite having multiple waterproofs on. A few other tourists didn’t – it’s unclear why anyone would be visiting Scotland in autumn without even a waterproof coat, but yet again lots of white trainers. We had to cross shallow rivers, trudge through peat bog sections and put up with the constant barrage of needling rain which caused our waterproofs to wet-out within minutes of leaving the car. After walking half of the 7.5km we decided it was becoming too dangerous (winds and rain increasing) and turned around.
The good news was I got to try my new ND filter – basically sunglasses for the camera which allows you to take very nice waterfall pictures. Despite everything getting very wet (my camera gear is fortunately weather-resistant) the 2 shots where I used it worked fine, for a first time using it at least.
Whilst out on our walk we got a message from Calmac (ferry company) saying our crossing to Harris and Lewis tomorrow morning had been cancelled, but instead we’d been booked onto the 6.15pm ferry tonight – the last out for a couple of days due to the next storm. We had a decision to make. Either go tonight, cancel our last Skye hotel and find somewhere to stay on Harris, or don’t go and then cancel 2 nights on Harris and Lewis, and the night we had booked near Ullapool. Easy choice, so we decided to visit our hotel for that night, explain and apologise (basically fishing for a refund) then head to the port.
On the way we called hotels on Harris and luckily our first hotel had space for tonight, so that was easy. Stops (which involved very short viewings as weather was getting worse) included Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls (pretty waterfall into the sea) and Quiraing (interesting rock formations). We couldn’t see Old Man of Storr from the road, so didn’t get out for that one!
Once all viewing was done, and hotel cancelled (yes, we got a refund) we headed to the port. A hot chocolate and scone from a café closing 8 minutes after we arrived was our only food since breakfast, then into the queue. We were first. The ferry was late, but on the way. As we sat there, spray was coming over the sea wall. Oh dear. But they docked the boat, unloaded around 100 vehicles and embarked the 12 idiots (including us) going back to Harris for the vessel’s last trip of the day. Apparently Tarbert on Harris is a safer berth for the boat, hence then need to take it back before the next storm hit.
The crossing was a bit rough, but nobody died, and the boat didn’t sink. And that’s all I have to say about that.
We were at the front of the boat, so first off. As the door opened the wind and rain were incredible. We drove off, and straight to the only hotel in Tarbert which served food at around 9pm. Unfortunately they had stopped service, but they were so kind and made us takeaway burgers. Big shout out to the Hebrides Hotel (we bought a drink for the the 2 lads who provided our dinner). Then we quickly found our accommodation (rooms above a little grocery store, ate food, unpacked the car, and went to bed. The blog (this entry) was done the following morning. We have no power….
Breakfast – Bracken Hide, Skye
Lunch – none!
Dinner – Hebrides Hotel, Harris
Hotel – Nook & Scranny, Harris