Day Three – Kintyre

We spent most of the day on the southernmost inhabited island of the Inner Hebrides, about 3 miles off the coast of the Kintyre peninsula – Gigha. About 5.4 square miles, it has just under 200 residents.

The ferry to Gigha is the smallest we’ve used so far – and the morning ferry contained 2 electricity company vans, the post van, a fire service van and 2 tourist cars. It was full. Another very calm crossing, but no wildlife of note this time. Once across, a short drive north we came across the first road block of the day.

Our first destination were the beaches to the north of the island, Palm Tree beach and the Eileen Garbh twin beaches. The wind was howling off the sea, but the views were incredible, with white sand beaches and turquoise and crystal clear water. There were plenty of signs of life – mink had clearly found crabs to eat, and animal prints covered the Palm Tree and surrounding beaches.

We then went slightly south, to the twin beaches – basically 2 beaches with a strip of land between, known as a Tombolo. The strip was just 20-30m wide, so eventually the two beaches will join and the piece of land off the island, Eileen Garbh, will become its own little island.

From here we headed back to the centre of the island, to the only place selling food – Gigha hotel. Unfortunately another road blockage, this time more significant. They wouldn’t move at all. Another car came from the other direction, and turned around (we later found out the driver was petrified of cows…or “coos” as the locals call them…so decided to give up getting through). There was also a young woman sat on the other side from us waiting and watching. Turns out she was also scared of them and didn’t want to try to get through. Jo solved that.

Once fed (curried parsnip soup) we headed on to our final stop, Achamore Gardens. Only recently (2002) did restoration begin of what would have been a big garden in the grounds of a very large house. With a walled garden and lots of unusual plants you could see the potential.

Back to the ferry for another uneventful, but slightly rougher and windier crossing, we headed north to Tarbert to collect another simple meal before heading back to Ronachan.

Breakfast – self catering
Lunch – Isle of Gigha Hotel
Dinner – self catering
Hotel – Ronachan guest house